Indian children love the Khomcha-Wallah. He wanders the streets, the busier the better, basket of goodies on his head and a cane stool under his arm. When he encounters a likely crowd he sets down his basket on the stool and starts to trade. The basket will contain the half-prepared ingredients of what is known in northern India as chaat - savoury snacks from traditional Hindu cuisine - which may be served in a banana leaf bowl.

One item might be Aloo Chaat which is fried, golden-brown potato cubes tossed with chilli powder, roasted cumin powder and chaat masala**.

Another, Dhai Baras which are split-pea patties. They will be already fried and softened in warm water. To complete the dish the Khomcha-Wallah may add beaten, creamy plain yoghurt with salt on top, and a choice of spice mixes. One mixture will be aromatic and probably contain roasted cumin, black pepper and dried mango powder, another will be hot a fiery with chillies, another sweet and sour like tamarind chutney.

Some Indian cities have become renowned for a certain sort of chaat - Jaipur for Paapri Chaat (similar to Dhai Baras but served with cubed potatoes chick peas) and Mumbai for Pau Bahji (spicy potato and vegetable curry served in a bun) but it is Delhi which is the chaat capital of India.

Some other chaats are:

Aloo Samosa - little pastry triangles filled with a spicy mixture of small diced potatoes and peas with chillies, chilli powder, fresh coriander, cumin and garam masala.

Keema Samosa - similar to above but including minced beef or lamb.

Aloo Tikki - mashed potato mixed with peas, cumin powder, corn flour, chilli powder and salt, formed into patties and fried until crisp and golden.

Tandoori Chicken Chaat - Tandoori chicken, shredded and mixed with diced green mango, onions, green chillies, coriander leaves and chaat masala**, dressed with lemon juice, oil and chilli powder.

**Chaat Masala is a spice mix made by combining the following ingredients.

4 tsp powdered dried mango

3 tsp cumin seeds, roasted and ground

3 tsp salt

‡ tsp ground black pepper

1 tsp garam masala

1 tsp coriander seeds, roasted and ground

‡ tsp ground ginger

‡ tsp fennel seeds, roasted and ground (optional)

º tsp cayenne pepper

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About the author:

Liz Canham is the webmistress of Asian Food and Cookery and Travellers' Tales.